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Ride Mode According to the drive mode your Qualisports folding electric bike have, the PAS level you choose would affect the range of your e-bike. For example, Qualisports lightweight folding electric bike have 5 assist levels, the range under PAS 1 is more than under PAS 5 usually.   In daily use ,we suggest PAS 1 to 3; but when you need speed, PAS 5 is your choice, boost up! If you’re preparing for a long trip, we recommended pedaling as you can together with motor when in tough terrains; when in flat terrains, try PAS 0, exercise is good for health, right ?     Weight This means the the whole weight load on the folding electric bike, such as your weight, cargo, pets and so on. It will also affect how far you can go before next charge. At this point, our Qualisports lightweight folding ebike is a good choice.   If you prefer traveling long trips, you should only bring things what is necessary with your folding electric. Too much weight will slow you down. Especially when climbing uphill, more weight will take more electric power to propel your foldable electric bike.     Terrains The terrain where you ride with will also effect on the range of your electric bike.   Steep hills / rough ground / moddy terrain will drain your battery fast.   When ride at flat terrain , it won't drain much power. We suggest you make a route plan ahead , so you can choose flat terrains as possible or take the short cut .   Ride Tech ' What !? ride tech ? Did ride bike needs any tech? I thought any one with legs can do that. '  YES ,that right ! The ride technique will also have an effect on the range of your folding ebike. Like cadence , gear using , suspension set. Meet the suspension ebike Beluga and Model 5!   It will be helpful if you are a 'old' bike rider, because you are experienced in riding ,that will help in increasing the range of electric bikes. Such as choosing the suitable gears for different terrains, turn off the front and rear suspension when riding on flat terrain.   Riding habits is also important ,if you keep in high speed or accelerate immediately , that will drain you battery fast.   Battery Many factors can affect battery's range ,temperatures, cell quality, cell capacity... Low temperature will reduce the battery's efficiency, high temperature will reduce the reliability, we recommend to charged at a range of 32 °F to 113 °F, and discharged between -4°F to 131°F.   When stored, they should be in a cool and dry place and keep it 50% to 60% remaining capacity. Do not fully charged or drain out. The quality and capacity of battery cells are also important, LG / SAMSUMG both reliable. Our folding electric bike all using LG / SAMSUMG batterys.     Tire Types That's right ,the types of tyre will also affect the range of your folding electric bike. HOW ? Let me explain, rolling resistance; it has nothing todo with your riding style, just the tire.   Fat tire folding ebike (3.0/4.0/4.5) have less range compared with the normal tyre(1.5/1.95/2.125). On the one hand , fat tires are more heavy, but it's not the main cause; on the other hand, fat tire folding ebikes do have much more rolling resistance than the normal tyre, this is the problem.   But ,easy, that won't effect too much on your folding ebike range. Different tire types are using for various terrains, fat tires can give you more grip while smaller tires are more strength saving .   If you need something ,you must give up something ,so we can't tell you which is  absolutely best.

When you are going to purchasing an ebike, you will find some brand says their motor power is 350W or 750W and some how. But do you know what exact means about folding ebike motor power?   Ebike motor power divided into 2 types: Rated power also know as Nominal power; and Peak power also know as Maximum power.   Rated Power: Definition: Rated power refers to the power level at which the ebike motor is designed to operate continuously and stably. The ebike motor can run for long periods at this power level, achieving optimal efficiency and minimal losses.Significance: Rated power reflects the ebike motor's regular performance and is the main reference value for normal use of the ebike. Looking for lightest ebike? Click here.Peak Power:Definition: Peak power refers to the maximum power output the ebike motor can achieve for a short period. This is usually reached during high-load conditions or when starting up your folding ebike.Significance: Peak power is often used to describe the ebike motor's capacity under extreme conditions, such as during acceleration or climbing. However, operating at peak power for extended periods can lead to overheating or potential damage to the motor, and will dry your ebike battery out quickly. For example, when you are using Qualisports folding ebike Volador, this bike's rated motor power is 350W while the peak power is approaching 500W,  peak power while help you getting through some extreme conditions like uphills or heavy load. Many folding ebikes on the market prefer talking about peak power, because it look like their folding bikes are powerful. Some folding ebikes will tell you their are talking about rated or peak power while others don't. As folding electric bike brand, Qualisports lightweight folding electric bike could not provide higher motor power. Our folding ebike  positioning is lightweight folding ebike, and we have the lightest folding ebike Nemo on the market. So, rated power represents the ebike motor's stable operating capacity, while peak power represents the ebike motor's short-term output capability under extreme conditions.

Mid-Drive Motor (Center Motor， Mid motor) Definition: A mid-drive motor is installed at the center of the bicycle frame, in the bottom bracket area, and is connected to the pedal system. Pros: Better Balance: With the motor located at the center of the frame, it distributes the weight more evenly, improving the bike’s stability and handling. Strong Climbing Ability: Mid-drive motors are directly connected to the gear system, enhancing the bike’s climbing ability and overall power output. More Natural Riding Experience: Integrated with the traditional pedal system, it provides a more natural riding feel. Easier Maintenance: The motor is centrally located, reducing interference with maintenance and repairs of other components. Cons: Higher Cost: Mid-drive motor systems are generally more expensive compared to hub motor systems. Frame Requirements: Requires a compatible frame design, which can limit options. Complex Repairs: Maintenance and component replacement may require higher technical expertise.   Hub Motor(hub drive) Definition: A hub motor is integrated directly into the wheel hub, with the motor and wheel axle as a single unit driving the wheel. Pros: Simpler Structure: Hub motor systems are simpler in design, easy to install, and have fewer components, which reduces maintenance complexity. Lower Cost: Hub motors are generally less expensive than mid-drive motors. Click here for low cost electric bike Versatile Installation: Suitable for various types of bicycles, with more flexible installation options.  Cons: Increased Wheel Weight: The wheel can become heavier with the motor integrated, affecting the riding feel and handling. Weaker Climbing Ability: Compared to mid-drive motors, hub motors may have weaker climbing ability, especially under high power demands. When in this situation, you may need to use the gear system properly, will help you climb the hill. Complex Repairs: If a hub motor fails, the entire wheel may need to be replaced, which can complicate repairs and replacements.  Buying Considerations Riding Needs: If you need to frequently climb hills or have high performance requirements, a mid-drive motor might be better. For urban riding or flat terrains, a hub motor might be sufficient. Budget: Mid-drive motors are typically more expensive. If budget is a concern, a hub motor may be a more cost-effective choice. Riding Experience: If you prioritize a more natural riding experience and better handling, a mid-drive motor is preferable. Maintenance and Repairs: For easier maintenance, a hub motor might be more suitable due to its simpler design.    

There are 5 main materials are using for bike frame. We also listed the strengths and weaknesses of the materials commonly used in bike frame construction for your reference.   Aluminum Alloy Aluminum alloy is a common bicycle frame material that is lightweight and possesses good strength. It is corrosion-resistant, relatively easy to process, and comes with a relatively lower cost. All Qualisports folding electric bike are made of aluminum alloy. Advantages: Lightweight: Aluminum alloy is relatively lightweight, making bikes easier to handle and maneuver. By the way, could you ever think there is an electric bike that only weights 34lbs? Corrosion Resistance: Aluminum naturally forms a protective oxide layer, providing corrosion resistance. Cost: Aluminum frames are often more affordable compared to some other materials. Disadvantages: Stiffness: Aluminum can be stiffer than other materials, potentially leading to a less comfortable ride on rough surfaces. Fatigue: Aluminum may be more prone to fatigue over time compared to materials like steel. But this won't need to be worried, it's a long time.   Carbon Fiber Carbon fiber is a high-strength, lightweight material widely used in the manufacturing of high-end bicycle frames such as S-Works. It has excellent fatigue resistance and vibration absorption properties, making the bicycle more comfortable during rides. Advantages: Lightweight: Carbon fiber is exceptionally light, contributing to overall bike weight reduction. Strength: Carbon fiber offers high strength-to-weight ratio, providing excellent structural integrity. Vibration Damping: Carbon fiber can absorb and dampen vibrations, leading to a smoother ride. Disadvantages: Cost: Carbon fiber frames are often more expensive due to the material's manufacturing complexity. Impact Damage: Carbon fiber can be susceptible to damage from impacts, and repairing it may be very challenging.   Steel Steel is one of the traditional materials for bicycle frames, offering good strength and durability. However, compared to aluminum alloy and carbon fiber, steel tends to be heavier. Advantages: Durability: Steel frames are known for their durability and longevity. Comfort: Steel can provide a more comfortable ride due to its ability to absorb vibrations. Repairability: Steel frames are generally easier to repair compared to some other materials. Disadvantages: Weight: Steel is heavier than materials like aluminum and carbon fiber. Corrosion: Without proper care, steel frames can be susceptible to rust and corrosion.   Titanium Alloy Titanium alloy is a lightweight and corrosion-resistant material suitable for high-end bicycles. Titanium alloy frames typically exhibit outstanding durability and corrosion resistance. Advantages: Lightweight: Titanium alloy is lightweight, similar to aluminum, providing a good balance between weight and strength. Corrosion Resistance: Titanium is highly resistant to corrosion. Durability: Titanium frames are known for their long-lasting durability. Disadvantages: Cost: Titanium frames are generally expensive due to the material's rarity and difficult manufacturing process.   Synthetic Materials In addition to carbon fiber, there are other synthetic materials used for bicycle frames, such as fiberglass, etc. Advantages: Customization: Synthetic materials allow for precise customization of frame characteristics. Weight: Can be lightweight with high strength. Disadvantages: Cost: Depending on the material, synthetic frames can be expensive. Repair Complexity: Repairing synthetic materials may require specialized knowledge and tools.  

Electric bikes, or e-bikes, can have various types of motors, and the classification is often based on their design and placement. Here are some common types of e-bike motors.   Hub Motors: Front Hub Motors: Located in the front wheel hub.Rear Hub Motors: Integrated into the rear wheel hub.Mid-Drive Motors: Positioned at the bike's bottom bracket (where the pedals connect to the frame), providing better balance and power distribution. Advantages: Simple design, quiet operation, easy installation.Disadvantages: Weight distribution issues, limited torque.   Mid-Drive Motors: Mounted at the bike's bottom bracket, these motors interact with the bike's gears to provide efficient power transfer. They are often found on higher-end e-bikes. Advantages: Better torque, improved handling, optimal for hills.Disadvantages: Complexity, higher cost.    All-in-One (Wheel) Motors: These motors are integrated into the entire wheel (usually the rear wheel) and include the motor, battery, and controller in a compact unit. Advantages: Compact design, easy maintenance.Disadvantages: Weight, limited customization.   Friction Drive Motors: Attached to the bike's frame, these motors use friction to drive the wheel. They are less common than hub or mid-drive motors.  Advantages: Simple installation, lightweight.Disadvantages: Lower efficiency, limited torque.   Torsion Drive Motors: This type of motor uses a torsion bar to transfer power from the motor to the wheel. It's less common but can offer a unique riding experience.  Advantages: Innovative design, potential for efficiency.Disadvantages: Limited availability, unknown reliability.   The choice of motor type depends on factors such as cost, efficiency, performance, and the specific application or use case for the e-bike. Different designs have their advantages and disadvantages, and the best choice often depends on the rider's preferences and intended use of the electric bike.  

 What is Post-mount and IS mount "Post-mount" and "IS mount" refer to different standards for attaching disc brakes to a bike's fork. Post-mount: Post-mount is a disc brake mounting standard that involves attaching the brake caliper directly to threaded posts on the bike frame or fork, bolts spaced at 74mm. The mounting posts are positioned parallel to the rotor and are usually found on the fork or frame. They may be positioned at different distances apart, depending on the specific design.   IS mount (International Standard mount): IS mount is another disc brake mounting standard that uses a set of two mounting tabs spaced at 51mm (International Standard) apart. In the case of disc brakes, IS mount is commonly found on the fork, and the brake caliper is attached to these tabs using bolts. The caliper is then aligned with the rotor, which is mounted to the wheel hub.   In general, the choice between post-mount and IS mount often depends on the specific design of the bike frame or fork, as well as the type of disc brake system being used. It's important to use the correct adapter or mount type for your specific components to ensure proper alignment and performance. Manufacturers will typically specify the type of mount their frames or forks support, and brake calipers may come with adapters to accommodate different mount standards.    Advantages and Disadvantages between Post-mount and IS mount   Both post-mount and IS mount systems are widely used in the cycling industry, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Here's a brief overview:   Advantages of Post-Mount: Simplicity and Integration: Post-mount systems often allow for a more streamlined and integrated look. The brake caliper can be directly mounted to the frame or fork without the need for additional adapters in many cases. Frame/Fork Compatibility: Some bike frames and forks are designed with specific post-mount dimensions, and using a post-mount brake caliper can simplify compatibility. Lighter Weight: In some instances, post-mount systems may be lighter due to the more direct connection between the brake caliper and the frame or fork.   Disadvantages of Post-Mount: Limited Adjustment: Post-mount systems may offer less adjustability compared to IS mount. The fixed position of the posts might limit the range of adjustment for caliper placement. Frame/Fork-Specific: Frames and forks with post-mounts may not be as versatile when it comes to accommodating different rotor sizes without the use of adapters.   Advantages of IS Mount: Adjustability: IS mount systems typically provide more adjustability, allowing for easier alignment of the brake caliper with the rotor. This can be particularly useful when using different rotor sizes. Versatility: IS mount systems are often more versatile, allowing the use of adapters to fit different rotor sizes and types. Widespread Standard: The IS mount standard has been widely adopted in the industry, making it easier to find compatible components.   Disadvantages of IS Mount: Bulkier Appearance: IS mount systems, especially when using adapters, can sometimes appear bulkier and less integrated than post-mount systems. Additional Adapters: Depending on the specific frame, fork, and rotor size, you may need additional adapters to fit the IS mount system properly.   In summary, the choice between post-mount and IS mount often comes down to factors such as frame/fork compatibility, aesthetic preferences, and the desired level of adjustability. Many modern bikes and components are designed to work seamlessly with either system, and the performance difference between the two is often minimal when properly set up.

Do you really know how to use the brakes? For most of us, we just know how to 'USE' the brakes, but you don't necessarily know 'HOW' to use the brakes   Use front and rear brakes Most E-bikes are equipped with two brakes, front and rear. Using two brakes can better balance the E-bike while braking, slow down quickly, and reduce the risk of sideslip and rollover. The front brake is mainly used for rapid deceleration, while the rear brake is mainly used for slowing down smoothly.   Early braking Before slowing down or stopping, brake early or interrupt the power output to give yourself enough time to slow down and react. This will be safer and more energy saving. Don't wait for an emergency braking.   Slowly apply pressure When braking, apply pressure slowly instead of suddenly pulling the brake lever (unless emergency braking is required). Sudden braking may cause the wheels to lock up, causing you to lose control, such as slipping or overturning. If you are not particularly experienced in braking, please try to increase the brake pressure slowly until you reach the required deceleration.   Be careful when using the front brake The front brake can provide more braking force than the rear brake, but if you suddenly pull hard on it while riding at high speed, it may cause the E-bike (including yourself) to flip over, the rear wheel to lift off the ground, overturn, and fall. So when using the front brake in an emergency, try to move your weight back as much as possible to gain more braking force while avoiding flipping over.   Maintain the brake system Ensure that your E-bike's brake system is in good working condition. Regularly inspect the brake pads and brake cables to ensure they are not worn or damaged.   Learn emergency braking techniques In emergency situations, it is necessary to brake more forcefully. If you are at risk of locking the brakes, you can try alternately pressing the front and rear brakes to maintain control.   Pay attention to road conditions Wet, cluttered, muddy, or uneven roads require more careful use of the brakes, as these conditions can result in longer braking distances and easy loss of control and sideslip. Even if you are very experienced in how to brake, you need to pay attention to safety, and increase the braking force more slowly when braking.   Be familiar with the 'personality' of the brakes Last but most importantly, you must be familiar with the brakes on the E-bike you are about to use, yeah, the ‘personality’ of the brakes. Because each brake (or brake used by each person) has a different personality. Some are soft, some are hard, some require the entire travel distance to lock, some require 1/2, and some only require 1/3. If you are not familiar with it, it is likely that you will not be able to brake in an emergency, or suddenly lock up and cause a rollover.   In short The correct braking method for E-bikes is to brake cautiously, moderately, and predictably to maintain safety. Following these principles can help you reduce the risk of accidents while cycling.    

WHAT IS CADENCE SENSOR When making the choice between the cadence sensor and the torque sensor, answer this question first: Are you looking for an E-bike that can do the most work for you? If YES, an E-bike with a cadence sensor might be the best choice. Cadence-based pedal assist systems will let the electric bike’s motor work (While the PAS is on) when a rider begins to pedal. Simply, when the cadence sensor detects the rotation from the pedals(Mostly a quarter turn and adjustable), the cadence sensor will send a signal to the controller, then the controller tells the motor to start work, then the motor will work as the controller told it, start smoothly or full power start(Set in controller). The effort a rider puts in and the selected PAS level will effect how many power the motor outputs. For example, on a cadence-based E-bike, manufacturers generally have preset speeds for each level of PAS. As your pedal cadence increases, the motor will continue to output until it reaches its MAX preset speed or power. While in flat terrains, the E-bike may reach the MAX preset speed, but when in steep terrains, the E-bike could not reaches the preset MAX speed even the motor work on its full power. • As the chainwheel's rotation comes to the MIN needs of the cadence sensor, the PAS will told the controller to let the motor engage. Your E-bike may need to move a longer(Compared with torque sensor based E-bike) distance before the motor could engage. This will be a significant difference when you are ride off road or on a steep terrain. • As the pedaling speed increases, the PAS will increase the motor’s output power/speed to the preset (NOT your pedal cadence). • As the pedaling speed decreases, the PAS will decrease the motor’s output power/speed to the preset (NOT your pedal cadence).   ADVANTAGES OF CADENCE SENSOR ELECTRIC BIKE A electric bike cadence sensor is used to detect how fast the a rider is pedaling, the faster you pedal the chainwheel, the more the motor helps you, there are some benefits that comes. Ease To Use One of the biggest advantages of riding an E-bike equipped with a cadence sensor is its very ease to use. Cadence sensor-based electric bikes require light pressure on the pedals to activate the motor, or we could say, when the cadence sensor noticed that the chainwheel's rotation is enough, the motor will engage and provide massive assistance. Efforts Saving After the motor engage(Before the motor start, you need to pedal the e-bike on your own), you can put MIN efforts which is enough to rotate the pedal and the motor will keep engaging. This makes cadence-based electric bikes becomes a better option for those recreational riders or someone with physical limitations but still wants to ride. Leisurely Cycling You can choose if they want to cruise around and have a leisurely ride, pedaling at low assist levels for less assistance. Or, you can turn the PAS level higher to feel the wind. Whatever you want, the electric bike will gives you.   Looking for folding E-bikes? Click here   DISADVANTAGES OF CADENCE SENSORS ELECTRIC BIKE Though the cadence-based electric bikes are suitable for all riders of all ages, sometimes riders want the riding feel more likely as ride a normal bike, like every time they pedal, they feel like they are pedaling the bike. The cadence sensors could not apply it.   Less Workout If you want an E-bike to feel more like a normal bike, the cadence based E-bike may not the best choice (If you turn off the PAS, it will be a normal bike). The cadence based E-bike will let the motor engaged anytime when the sensor sensed any rotation. You couldn’t feel an intense workout when riding an E-bike based on cadence sensors, the E-bike will do the most of work for you and you will feel relaxed and enjoy the view, but this may be an absolute riding experience that requires less effort!   Less Mileage(Mostly) Mileage is one of the important factors when purchasing an electric bike. There are a lot of factors will effect the E-bike's mileage. Extensive use of cadence-based PAS, especially at higher levels for a long time(Such as PAS 4 of 5), needs a large amount of electricity to power the motor. The battery's capacity is certain, decide how many mileages on a single charge. The cadence sensor will let the motor engage (Before exceeding the MAX speed) the time it feels rotation from your pedal, such as when you are down hill, even if you are empty pedaling (You are not using any effort), the cadence sensor will also let the motor engage all the way to exceeding the MAX PAS speed, but you don't need any help from the motor in this situation. Learn more: 8 Free tips to increase the E-bike mileage   WHAT IS TORQUE SENSOR When choosing an E-bike between a torque sensor or a cadence sensor, if you want an ride experience that's similar to a normal bike, the torque sensor-based electric bike might be the better choice for you.   While cadence-based sensors measure if a rider is pedaling and how fast is pedaling, torque sensors could measure how hard you are pedaling. A torque sensor measures how much force you are applying to the pedals, then calculates how much power the motor should be. A torque sensor will sense your efforts and amplifying your efforts.   • Even if you are static, the time you put efforts on your pedal, the torqur sensor will 'know' you needs help, then the motor will engage. You just need to let the E-bike moving a little distance before the motor could engage.It's much easier when ride off road or on steep terrains. • The harder you pedal, the more your motor output, up to the preset of PAS level(Match you cadence). • The less you pedal, the less output your motor will be(Match you cadence).   ADVANTAGES OF TORQUE SENSOR ELECTRIC BIKE The torque-based E-bike has a natural ride feel and more mileage on all types of E-bikes, including a folding E-bike with a torque sensor. More Exercise If your goal is to find an electric bike which feel like a boost on you leg while riding, you come to the right place, choose the torque based E-bike! The PAS naturally works with you rather than doing a most of the work for you, the torque sensor could 'feel' how hard you are pedaling, the harder you pedal, the more the motor boost. Natural Riding Style You may feel more intuitive because the torque sensor is able to adjust the motor’s assistance power to match your pedaling cadence/efforts. You won’t get a sudden jolt of power when changing PAS levels or start to pedal, the torque sensor 'knows' when and how much power the bike should give you and does smoothly and dynamically. It doesn't like the cadence sensor which could only output the preset power of every PAS level. More Mileage Since torque-based E-bikes do not produce a preset output at any PAS level, you may be able to save electricity and ride farther. As torque sensor E-bikes simply assist you while riding, depending on how much effort you’re putting in, torque sensor E-bikes won’t consume extra energy while you don't need assistance, such as when you are down hill, even if you are empty pedaling (You are not using any effort), the torque sensor will not let the motor engage because you don't really need help. Very smart, isn't? Ultimately, giving you more control over your ride, your E-bike, and your experience.   Need torque-based E-bike? Don't miss this one: Model 5    DISADVANTAGES OF TORQUE SENSOR ELECTRIC BIKE Torque sensor E-bike needs you and your motor riding the bike at the same time, so you can't slack off. In order to reach a higher speed, you need to put more effort into pedaling. But a cadence sensor E-bike will immediately output all the way to its highest preset speed. More Effort If a cadence-based E-bike feels too effortless, try a torque-based E-bike. The sensors detect how much effort you’re putting into your ride and help you with the ride, giving you a more natural connection with your E-bike! In addition, once the top speed is reached on an E-bike with a torque sensor, sustaining the top speed will also require your extra pedal power. It's a workout, but sometimes it's a good thing. What if you don't want to pedal but you want to speed up? Um...don't you know a part named 'Throttle'? With this, you could speed up with no pedal! So...this isn't a disadvantage anymore. Note: Class 3 E-bike does not has a throttle  Learn more: Difference between E-bike class 1, 2, and 3   Unable to be lazy As said above, unlikely to the cadence based E-bike, when you ride with a torque based E-bike, you and your motor are riding the bike at the same time. You pedal less, the motor pedals less; you pedal hard, the motor will pedal harder, so you can't slack off, otherwise the motor will slack off with you and the bike will stop.     Sum Up The most important you need to know is, the cadence sensor does not know how hard you are pedaling, it just knowhow fast the pedal you rotate. To explain this, move your bike to a steep terrain, stop it halfway, open the PAS and start pedaling, the cadence sensor E-bike will be harder to start, because your pedal haven't come to rotate enough, the cadence sensor won't be able to know if you are pedaling, so the motor will not engage. But the torque sensor is smarter, it will know when and how much help you needs when you just pedal a little, it could feel the effort you put on the pedal. There is no absolute statement about which is the best between a torque sensor E-bike and a cadence sensor E-bike, but we do have an absolute statement about which one is the best for you depends on the way you ride. Cadence sensor PAS technologies are easy to use, have plenty of power, and give you the freedom to put in as little effort as you want but with big assistance power. Also, E-bikes with torque sensors PAS technologies provide a more natural riding experience. Both types of pedal assist sensors will give you exactly what you want: electricity assistance when riding. The question to ask yourself is, what you want to put in to receive the assistance? If you want feel relaxed and enjoy the view, want to put in as little effort as you want but on high and powerful speeds, try an E-bike with a cadence sensor. Or, if you want natural riding style, more mileage or have some exercise while riding, E-bikes with torque sensors will be the best choice!  

Choosing between e-bike classes 1, 2, and 3 could be a little difficult if you’re not exactly sure what the differences are between each class or what your desired use case is.   Why classify e-bikes 1, 2, and 3 Different countries and regions may have their classifications and regulations for electric bikes, taking into account factors such as maximum speed, power output, and motor activation. Always check your local laws and regulations before purchasing an electric bike.    Find your state's e-bike rules here: https://www.peopleforbikes.org/electric-bikes/state-laws   The classification for electric bikes is not exclusive to the United States, Europe also has its classification for electric bikes, a little different from the United States.   These classifications and regulations aim to provide guidelines for e-bike usage, ensure safety, and determine where e-bikes are allowed to operate.   In our country, electric bikes are classified into Class 1, Class 2, and Class 3 e-bikes, which are defined by the type of pedal assistance and maximum assisted speed. Below are the differences as typically applied in the United States.       What is class 1, 2, and 3   Class 1 e-bikes: Maximum Assisted Speed: 20 mph (32 km/h) Maximum Motor Rated Power: 750 Watts (1 horsepower) Pedal Assistance: Provides motor assistance only when the rider is pedaling(No throttle). Legal Considerations: Class 1 e-bikes are generally allowed in areas where traditional bicycles are permitted, including bike lanes, paths, and trails. Class 2 e-bikes: Maximum Assisted Speed: 20 mph (32 km/h) Maximum Motor Rated Power: 750 Watts (1 horsepower) Throttle: Can be operated directly(without pedaling), using a throttle mounted on the handlebar to activate the motor; Also equipped with Pedal Assist System(PAS) Legal Considerations: Class 2 e-bikes may have varying regulations depending on state and local laws. Some areas allow them on roads, streets, and bike paths, while others restrict their use to roads and streets only. Class 3 e-bikes: Maximum Assisted Speed: 28 mph (45 km/h) Maximum Motor Rated Power: 750 Watts (1 horsepower) Pedal Assistance: Provides motor assistance only when the rider is pedaling(No throttle). Legal Considerations: Class 3 e-bikes are typically subject to more specific regulations and may require additional safety features. They are generally not allowed on bike paths or trails designated for normal bicycles but can be used on roads and streets, following the same rules as normal bicycles.   A detailed explanation of Class 1 e-bikes   Class 1 e-bikes are treated like normal mountain or pavement bicycles in some states, legally allowed to ride where bicycles are permitted, including bike lanes, roads, multi-use trails, and bike-only paths.   Class 1 e-bike definition is having a maximum speed of 20 MPH and is equipped with an electric motor without throttle that only works when the rider is pedaling. Once you start pedaling you will be able to get up to 20 mph (miles per hour), Exceeding this speed, the motor will not work.   Class 1 e-bike riders could ride anywhere(the same as normal bikes) they would due to the low speed and operation. Meaning class 1 electric bikes are allowed on bike lanes, bike paths, and on the road.   A detailed explanation of Class 2 e-bikes   Class 2 e-bikes are often allowed in most places where a traditional bike can go, but some states or cities have add-on restrictions (such as New York City).   Class 2 e-bikes assist when pedaling or by using a throttle and has a maximum speed of 20 mph. The throttle always comes in a grip twist or a button that you hold to make the bike move without pedaling.   All Qualisports e-bikes are class 2 e-bikes, equipped with a throttle; They are 1) Nemo, a very small, exquisite, lightweight e-bike, only 34 lbs; 2) Volador, equipped with Shimano 7-SPEED gears, only 38 lbs; 3) Dolphin, dual-batteries, hydraulic brake USB ports, weight about 51 lbs; 4) Beluga, a 4.25” fat tire e-bike for off-road, sand, and adventurous bike rides.   A class 2 e-bike is capable of riding in most places you ride a normal bike.     A detailed explanation of Class 3 e-bikes   Class 3 e-bikes are generally allowed on roads and on-road bike lanes but can't travel on bike trails.   Class 3 electric bikes just have pedal assist and top off at 28mph. Due to the higher speed of class 3 electric bikes, they’re restricted from certain bike trails and bike paths.   What makes Qualisports’s electric bikes unique is that they are equipped with both pedal assist and throttle. We keep making high-quality and affordable e-bikes that are accessible to everyone, we hope our Qualisports e-bike could delight your life.   To sum up   Class 1: Pedal-assist only; motor assists up to 20 mph. Class 2: Pedal-assist and throttle; motor assists up to 20 mph. Class 3: Pedal assist only; motor assists up to 28 mph.   Learn more at peopleforbikes.org: https://www.peopleforbikes.org/topics/electric-bikes

Brake components are crucial for ensuring our safety while riding a bicycle. Among them, the disc brake system has become the standard configuration for sports bicycles and is the most critical part of the entire braking system. Unfortunately, many cycling enthusiasts overlook the importance of the disc brake system and are uncertain about its function, maintenance, and how to differentiate between various sizes. In this article, we will delve into these topics and provide a detailed overview of the disc brake system for all cycling enthusiasts to understand and appreciate. What is a disc brake used for? In cycling, a disc brake is used as a braking system for bicycles. It is a type of brake that uses a rotor, typically made of metal, that is mounted on the wheel hub and a caliper that is mounted on the frame or fork. When the brake lever is pulled, the caliper squeezes the rotor, creating friction and slowing down or stopping the wheel. Disc brakes are becoming increasingly popular in cycling because they offer several advantages over traditional rim brakes. They provide more consistent and reliable braking performance, particularly in wet or muddy conditions, and they require less maintenance over time. Additionally, they are typically more powerful than rim brakes, which can be important for riders who are cycling at high speeds or carrying heavy loads. Disc brakes come in two types: hydraulic and mechanical. Hydraulic disc brakes use fluid to transmit the force from the brake lever to the caliper, while mechanical disc brakes use a cable. Both types can provide excellent stopping power, but hydraulic disc brakes are generally considered to be more powerful and offer better modulation. Overall, disc brakes are an important component of modern bicycles, and they can significantly improve the safety and performance of riders on the road or trail. What is the difference in size of disc brake rotors? The disc brakes of bicycles are usually divided into sizes of 140mm, 160mm, 180mm, 203mm, and 220mm. For road bikes with hydraulic brakes, 140mm and 160mm disc brakes are the most common. Considering that mountain bikes require more braking power and the tires can provide more grip, disc brake sizes generally start at 160mm. The current mainstream trend is to use larger 180mm or even 203mm (200mm) disc brakes on the front wheel of XC(Cross Country) mountain bikes to further enhance braking power. Generally speaking, the larger the disc, the longer the brake lever when braking, the greater the braking force and the more efficient it is. Based on current trends, larger brake discs can provide more braking force, which is not in dispute. Under other conditions remaining unchanged, simply increasing the size of the disc can obtain more braking force. This is because a larger disc can provide a longer lever arm for the brakes, or a larger brake radius. What are the benefits of a thicker brake disc rotor? Increasing the size while maintaining braking power ensures better resistance to twisting forces. A thicker disc rotor has a greater oil capacity for heat dissipation. A thicker disc rotor is less likely to vibrate or generate noise due to resonance. It is more rigid and has a stronger ability to resist deformation. Pairing a more powerful caliper and brake pad with a stronger disc rotor results in a more linear and powerful braking force. Compared to a 1.8mm thick disc rotor, a 2.3mm thick disc rotor has an 8% improvement in heat resistance, a 47% increase in rigidity, and provides stronger braking power. It's important to note that there are tradeoffs to using thicker brake discs, such as increased weight and potential compatibility issues with certain bike frames or components. It's always best to consult with a professional bike mechanic to determine if a thicker brake disc is right for your specific bike and riding style. How to install the brake disc? Installing the bike brake disc involves a few steps, and it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully to ensure proper installation. Here is a general guide to help you install a bike brake disc: Gather the necessary tools: You will need a torque wrench, hex wrenches, and a rotor truing tool. Remove the wheel from the bike: Use a hex wrench to loosen and remove the axle bolts, then slide the wheel out of the frame. Remove the old rotor (if applicable): If you are replacing an old rotor, use a hex wrench to remove the bolts that hold it in place. Install the new rotor: Slide the new rotor onto the hub, lining up the bolt holes with those on the hub. Tighten the bolts using a torque wrench, following the manufacturer's recommended torque specifications. Mount the wheel back on the bike: Slide the wheel back into the frame, ensuring that the axle is properly seated in the dropouts. Tighten the axle bolts using a torque wrench, following the manufacturer's recommended torque specifications. Adjust the brake caliper: Use the rotor truing tool to align the brake caliper so that it is centered over the rotor. Tighten the bolts that hold the caliper in place. Test the brake: Squeeze the brake lever to ensure that the brake engages properly and does not rub against the rotor. If the brake rubs, use the rotor truing tool to adjust the caliper until it is properly aligned. Once you have installed the brake disc and tested it, you are ready to ride your bike again. If you are unsure about any of these steps, it is always best to consult with a professional bike mechanic for assistance. How to maintain the brake disc? Maintaining your bike brake disc is essential for ensuring your safety while riding. Here are some steps you can take to maintain your bike brake disc: Keep the brake disc clean: The brake disc should be kept clean to prevent any buildup of dirt, debris or oil. Use a clean, lint-free cloth or paper towel to wipe the brake disc before and after each ride. Check the brake pads: Regularly check the brake pads for wear and tear. The brake pads should be replaced if they are worn down or damaged. If the brake pads are dirty or glazed, remove them from the caliper and clean them with rubbing alcohol. Inspect the brake caliper: Check the brake caliper for any signs of damage, such as cracks or deformation. If the caliper is damaged, it should be replaced. Lubricate the moving parts: Lubricate the moving parts of the brake system, such as the brake lever, cable and caliper, to ensure smooth and efficient operation. Check the rotor for warping or damage: Check the rotor for any warping or damage. If the rotor is warped or damaged, it should be replaced. Adjust the brake pads: Adjust the brake pads to ensure that they are properly aligned with the rotor. The pads should be adjusted so that they make contact with the rotor evenly and do not rub against the rotor excessively. By following these steps, you can maintain your bike brake disc and ensure that your bike is safe and ready for your next ride. Please take note of the following safety guidelines: After riding, do not touch the brake disc with your hand as it may cause burns. Allow the brake disc and brake pads to run in for a period of time before applying heavy braking. Avoid installing new ones and immediately subjecting them to intense pressure.

Doing a basic but thorough safety check on your bike before every ride is always a good idea. After all, you don't want to find out something wrong when you're already on the road.  The "M-check" method will help you methodically identify possible problems with your bike memorably. This applies equally to the road, mountain, electric hybrid, and other bikes that have been sitting idle for a long time.   The M-check is a set of check methods designed to address a bicycle's basic safety and performance. Starting from the front hub, moving up along the front fork, then backward, passing through the frame and finally to the rear wheel, drawing the shape of the letter M, you can traverse the main working parts of the bike and complete the inspection of the whole bike. Once you have mastered this method, you can check a bike thoroughly in a couple of minutes. Following is each step of the M-check:   1. Check Front Wheel, Brakes, and Hubs First, we need to check if the wheelset is securely fastened. The most common way to lock the wheelset on a bike is with a quick release or thru axle. If you are using a quick release on your bike, loosen and open the quick release, press and hold the toggle switch on the quick release and turn the nut on the other side of the quick release until the nut is tight against the fork. Then open the quick release and screw the nut in one more turn. Your wheelset will now be securely locked to the hook and claw of the fork. Placing the bike on the ground while doing this check and adjustment will better ensure the wheelset is centered. There are many different types of thru axle. Some have a locking structure similar to a quick-release cam lever, and others use threaded locking; they serve the same purpose. The shaft is usually threaded through the entire hub from the fork side and locked to the opposite or rear fork. Before riding, ensure the thru axle is securely locked per the manufacturer's instructions.Second, turn the wheelset to see if there is a squeaking sound. It may need maintenance or bearing replacement if it sounds like it is turning roughly. As you spin the wheelset, check to see if the brake discs or the brake side of the rims are rubbing against the brake clamps. You will need to adjust the clamps or the entire brake system if it does. Last, squeeze the brake handle to ensure the brakes are working correctly. If you find that your hydraulic disc brake feels soft, then it may need to be oiled. The hydraulic disc brakes on your new Dolphin need to be oiled regularly. If you are using pull-cord disc brakes and they don't feel as sensitive as they used to, you may need to adjust the tension on the brake lines or replace the brake pads.   2. Check the Tires The tire needs to be properly mounted on the rim. Check the edge of the tire that is in contact with the rim to ensure that the edge looks even in every place. If there is a problem somewhere, then it needs to be removed and reinstalled. After completing the inspection of the tire mounting, we need to check the tread and sidewalls of the tire in contact with the ground for excessive wear and damage. It is dangerous to use tires that are excessively worn or have damage, such as cracks, and if you find any suspicion or uncertainty about the tires, we recommend replacing them.   For road bike tires, if you notice that some areas have worn flat or where the rubber is starting to come off, the tire must be replaced. For fat tires or mountain bike tires, the tires' bumps will gradually disappear as they wear. If the bulge has worn down very badly, then the tire is no longer usable. You also need to pump the tires to the right air pressure before riding. The optimal tire pressure will be different for different models such as road bikes and mountain bikes, including the different surfaces you are ready to go riding on.   3. Check the Frame Check the frame to see if there are hairline cracks, and go down the edge to check if the various accessories (such as the water bottle cage) are installed correctly and if there is any noise. Even if there is a tiny hairline crack, you need to have it checked by a professional before riding. If your frame is equipped with a rear shock, check the shock mounting screws to ensure the shock is correctly and reliably installed. You also need to test the shocks to ensure they are working properly.   4. Check Cranksand Pedals Check if the crank is free to rotate: rotate the crank backward to check if the drivetrain runs smoothly and if the bottom bracket is in good condition. Check the gear plate for damage, missing teeth or excessive wear. An excessively worn tooth is similar in shape to a shark fin. Wiggle the crank to the left and right sides of the bike to check for any resistance or openness in the connection between the crank and the frame. If it feels like there is open volume, it means you may need to replace the center shaft. Turn the pedal, and a well-maintained pedal will only rotate freely with damping because thick lubricated grease will prevent the pedal from rotating. Also, check that the pedals are properly and reliably mounted on the crank. For locking pedals, check if the locking shoe's metal or plastic locking tabs are excessively worn, if the bolts are secure, and if the locking and unlocking forces of the locking pedal match your locking pedal settings.   5. Check the Seat Tube Cushion There are many small parts on the seat rod clevis, and they can easily move relative to each other and then make a squeaking sound. If so, we need to take apart all the various parts on the seatpost, clean them, lubricate them, and reassemble them. We need to regularly remove the seat post from the frame for cleaning and maintenance. If you take care of your seat post regularly and properly, your frame will be protected, so don't be lazy and ignore this step. After setting the correct cushion height and reassembling the cushion, we need to check if the cushion is firmly installed on the cushion clevis.   6. Check the Rear Wheels and Drivetrain Turn the crank to check the chain rotation to ensure no chain links are frozen and cannot turn against each other. Double check each gear of the shifter to make sure that each gear is raised and lowered properly. If using electronic shifting, ensure the battery is fully charged before riding. If there is no indication and you are not sure, it is best to charge it in advance. Safety should be your top priority, and checking your bike regularly will also help reduce the chances of breakdowns and expensive repairs, allowing you to enjoy the freedom of riding on two wheels. There are many things to check before you go out on your bike, but it only takes a few minutes at a time. When we install the saddle on the seat post battery, we should confirm the bottom battery cable is unconnected; otherwise, we need to loosen it first. And please keep in mind not to use any screwdriver to touch the charge port on the seat post battery in case of electric shock.